Note that the edges of the opposing parts and the hole line up almost perfectly. The shiney spot in the hole is from inserting a cleco. It has not been drilled up yet.
Welcome
The posts are presented in reverse chronological order (newest first). Or you can click on one of the "Labels" to see all of the posts concerning a specific topic. Click on any photo for a larger image.
All my building experience is limited to Van's RV's so I have no experience with building tube and fabric or "plans building". I have much to learn so take everything I write with a grain of salt and reasonable skepticisim.
I do not intend to follow a "traditional" path for the construction of #88. I intend to employ low level technology and $ to reduce the construction time and difficulty where possible and practical. By low level technology I am referring to CAD, laser, waterjet, CNC. For example:
- I have purchased a complete wing spar kit from Jerry Kerr.
- A rib kit from Mr. Bartoe.
- Brunton Flying Wires and Drag wires from Harvey Swack.
- CNC profiled tube kits for the fuselage, tail feathers and landing gear from VR3.
In addition I have converted all of the wing fittings, brackets, links, lugs etc. to CAD and had them cut by water jet. I have designed a laser cut wing spar drill template/jig which positions the five spar components so that all of the holes can be drilled in a complete spar as an assembly. I plan to continue converting as many parts as I can to CAD so that I can reduce the "hand-made" components to a minimum.
Note: As of June 2015 I have over 100 CAD files which provide 600+ water jet cut parts for the Skyote.
While it takes a little time, converting the design to CAD is a great way to truly understand the drawings. plus a huge amount of information has been extracted from the rather complex drawings. This can be a great help to others in understanding and interpreting the design.
The Skyote is uniquely suited for conversion to CAD in that a "computer" was used in it's original design. I have read that Mr. Bartoe used a HP calculator to "compute" the design and dimensions of the Skyote. The plans show all of the critical dimensions to three decimal places for X,Y and Z axes.
Amazingly, when I put the design into CAD the resulting 3D models agree with Mr. Bartoe's thee decimal place dimensions about 99.9% of the time. I have found one discrepancy but less than 0.030"!
If you want to build your Skyote as cheaply as possible, or if you enjoy handcrafting the same parts over and over again then my approach to building is not for you!
If you want to build your Skyote in the minimum possible time with highly accurate parts then this approach may be the answer. I personally get a lot of satisfaction out of organizing the project so that it can be produced accurately. Hopefully some of this work will prove useful to others in the future.
Wednesday, August 19, 2015
Fitting Bender Angle Meter Addition
Note that the edges of the opposing parts and the hole line up almost perfectly. The shiney spot in the hole is from inserting a cleco. It has not been drilled up yet.
Thursday, July 23, 2015
A Shocking Development!
Thursday, June 18, 2015
Simple Fitting Bending Tool
An upcoming "Group Buy Production Run" of water jet cut parts for other builders has inspired me to develop a more practical method of achieving accurate bending results.
This new method uses a common bending brake similar to those readily available from Harbor Freight or Grizzly, etc..
Anyone building a Skyote needs one of these anyway. This is a 36" brake. There are many options but smaller brakes don't generally have the backbone required to bend 4130.
I used the same 3D modeling software that was used to model the fittings to model a jig (fixture?) to accurately position the fitting in the brake. The jig assures both alignment and offset of the bend. A sheet metal "Counter" is used give the proper bend radius.
The "C" shaped jig provides offset and alignment. The angle provides the proper bend radius.
This is how the parts fit in the brake, clamped tight, ready to bend. Be sure the fitting is firmly seated into the jig. Of course, the gap between the upper clamping bar and the lower pivoting bending bar must be properly set.
After bending. This approach yields consistent results which is a requirement for matched pairs.
The operator is responsible for achieving the proper bend angle. A simple angle gauge for 97.2 degrees and 82.8 degrees will be provided with the fitting kits.
With a little practice you can get really close every time. Adjusting fittings which are a little over bent is easy. Also, you can C-clamp a stop onto the frame of the brake.
Only one jig is required for the 4130 kit parts because I made small adjustments (0.015"+/-) to all of the fitment models so the the bend offset from the edge of each fitting is identical. This method is considerably faster than my precision ram type press brake.
Tuesday, June 16, 2015
Three Down-One to Go!
I sure will be happy when its done.
I am lucky to have a good wife. Julia agreed to let me store a wing on our dining room table for a "short while". Tom Dubes helped me carry it in.
First try at a logo. The vinyl material is a close match to the Federal yellow paint but when it is applied over the black paint it changes slightly. I am not certain what I will do to correct it.
Saturday, May 30, 2015
Yellow Wing #2
Sunday, May 24, 2015
Landing Gear Complete
Friday, May 22, 2015
Painting the Main Gear
Ready to install on the fuselage.
Here the gear strut is prepped and re-primed with DP=40 prior to adding the final top-coats.
Done! I plan to put #88 back on its gear tomorrow.
Covering and painting the fuse on the gear with the engine in place was also a big mistake. I wish I had covered and painted the fuse on a rotisserie. It would have been quicker, easier and I could have done a better job overall.
Thursday, May 14, 2015
Fiber Glassing Landing Gear Fairings
Here the ends of the cloth have been trimmed and tucked, again using CA to tack in place. No resin yet.
Saturated with West systems resin. Almost makes the cloth invisible, I hope to get the gear primed and painted tomorrow.
