Welcome

*****Skyote #88 gets Bronze Lindy for "Airventure-Oshkosh 2016 Plans Built Champion"******


October, 2007

Welcome to "Skyotelog", the build record of Skyote #88. I assume that you are familar with the Skyote biplane. If not, you should visit http://www.skyote.org/ for a complete introduction to this unique but elusive biplane.

The posts are presented in reverse chronological order (newest first). Or you can click on one of the "Labels" to see all of the posts concerning a specific topic. Click on any photo for a larger image.

All my building experience is limited to Van's RV's so I have no experience with building tube and fabric or "plans building". I have much to learn so take everything I write with a grain of salt and reasonable skepticisim.


I do not intend to follow a "traditional" path for the construction of #88. I intend to employ low level technology and $ to reduce the construction time and difficulty where possible and practical. By low level technology I am referring to CAD, laser, waterjet, CNC. For example:

  • I have purchased a complete wing spar kit from Jerry Kerr.
  • A rib kit from Mr. Bartoe.
  • Brunton Flying Wires and Drag wires from Harvey Swack.
  • CNC profiled tube kits for the fuselage, tail feathers and landing gear from VR3.

In addition I have converted all of the wing fittings, brackets, links, lugs etc. to CAD and had them cut by water jet. I have designed a laser cut wing spar drill template/jig which positions the five spar components so that all of the holes can be drilled in a complete spar as an assembly. I plan to continue converting as many parts as I can to CAD so that I can reduce the "hand-made" components to a minimum.

Note: As of June 2015 I have over 100 CAD files which provide 600+ water jet cut parts for the Skyote.


While it takes a little time, converting the design to CAD is a great way to truly understand the drawings. plus a huge amount of information has been extracted from the rather complex drawings. This can be a great help to others in understanding and interpreting the design.


The Skyote is uniquely suited for conversion to CAD in that a "computer" was used in it's original design. I have read that Mr. Bartoe used a HP calculator to "compute" the design and dimensions of the Skyote. The plans show all of the critical dimensions to three decimal places for X,Y and Z axes.


Amazingly, when I put the design into CAD the resulting 3D models agree with Mr. Bartoe's thee decimal place dimensions about 99.9% of the time. I have found one discrepancy but less than 0.030"!


If you want to build your Skyote as cheaply as possible, or if you enjoy handcrafting the same parts over and over again then my approach to building is not for you!


If you want to build your Skyote in the minimum possible time with highly accurate parts then this approach may be the answer. I personally get a lot of satisfaction out of organizing the project so that it can be produced accurately. Hopefully some of this work will prove useful to others in the future.


Comments are welcome. I will respond as time permits

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Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Fitting Bender Angle Meter Addition







I remembered that I had an old Starrett Angle Finder with magnetic base and it occurred that it might be useful as an angle indicator while bending fittings. This is the AM-2 Model and sells for less than $20 all over the web.  Turns out it works great!



Here it is attached to the rotating bender bar of my trusty Harbor Freight 36" Metal Brake.
(Harbor Freight currently has the bender on sale for $189.99 normally $279.99 good until 10/17/15. So for about $210 you an have precision fitting bender complete with a "Made in the USA" Starrett angle indicator.)

As luck would have it, when you rotate the bender bar upward to bend the fitting the Angle Meter rotates up giving you a perfect view of the bend angle. There is spring back to deal with so you have to over-form just a bit. Just sneak up on it and determine the correct amount of overbend. Bingo! No more guessing and adjusting later! Sure wish I had this when I bent all of my fittings

Note that my prototype fitting bender jig is not quite wide enough causing the "ear" of the fitting to overlap the tab of the jig. I will make the next one wider to fix this problem.


 The above is a matched pair of two identical spar fittings bent 90 degrees then matched for comparison of the two bends.( In practice, the parts would not be oriented this way.)


Note that the edges of the opposing parts and the hole line up almost perfectly. The shiney spot in the hole is from inserting a cleco.  It has not been drilled up yet.

Thursday, July 23, 2015

A Shocking Development!


About five years back I got interested in finding an alternative to the bungee sprung landing gear shocks. I was looking for something that was more tunable as to preload and spring rate. There were some very interesting shocks being used on sand buggies and other off road atv's but nothing quite fit the Skyote. That led to my design of a shock which used a stack of urethane bushings in compression. This was indeed tunable for preload and spring rate. The design seems to function fine but has not been flown. The only shortcoming was the continuing lack of rebound damping. 

I recently stumbled across an ad in Barnstormers for TK1 Racing shocks that have all of the features I want! Since I was first looking, TK1 has discovered the market for fully functional aircraft shocks for the experimental aircraft and now offers quite a few models. Tony at TK1 was able to assemble a set of shocks for the Skyote using mostly standard parts, just a custom clevis on the top end. 

They are nitrogen pressurized and oil damped on the rebound. They are dimensionally interchangeable with the stock shocks, look good and being all aluminum, weigh almost the same the same as stock. The nitrogen pressure will be adjusted for proper ride height when the airplane is at "Taxi Weight". I hope to be able to give a flight test report in the next few months.



 TK1 Racing shock installed on #88.



Top: Stock shock.
Middle: My design. 
Bottom: TK1 Racing shock.




Installed on the Skyote.

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Simple Fitting Bending Tool

The 7.2 degree sweep of the Skyote wing creates a challenge in making accurate matched pairs of spar mounted fittings. In the early stages of this project I designed a rather complex but effective ram style bender. You can see this bender in my post of Nov. 28,2007 entitled  "Radius Bender". This bender is capable of producing bends which are very accurate in terms of position on the part and degree of bend and in a repeatable manner.  It is, however" quite expensive and complex and somewhat cumbersome to use.

An upcoming "Group Buy Production Run" of water jet cut parts for other builders has inspired me to develop a more practical method of achieving accurate bending results.

This new method uses a common bending brake similar to those readily available from Harbor Freight or Grizzly, etc..
Anyone building a Skyote needs one of these anyway. This is a 36" brake. There are many options but smaller brakes don't generally have the backbone required to bend 4130.

I used the same 3D modeling software that was used to model the fittings to model a jig (fixture?)  to accurately position the fitting in the brake. The jig assures both alignment and offset of the bend. A sheet metal "Counter" is used give the proper bend radius.
Only two simple parts are required. (1) A sheet metal angle made from 0.032 to 0.050 aluminum to serve as a radius shim over nose of the upper clamping bar to give the proper bend radius. (2) A precision alignment jig designed to position the part perfectly in the brake.  That's it!

 The jig is CAD designed, waterjet cut and the tabs are bent on my precession bender. This creates a pocket or back-stop which accurately positions the fitting.  The up-turned tabs position the jig in the brake.

The  "C" shaped jig provides offset and alignment. The angle provides the proper bend radius.
 This is how the parts fit in the brake, clamped tight, ready to bend. Be sure the fitting is firmly seated into the jig. Of course, the gap between the upper clamping bar and the lower pivoting bending bar must be properly set.

After bending. This approach yields consistent results which is a requirement for matched pairs.

The operator is responsible for achieving the proper bend angle. A simple angle gauge for 97.2 degrees and 82.8 degrees will be provided with the fitting kits.
With a little practice you can get really close every time. Adjusting fittings which are a little over bent is easy. Also, you can C-clamp a stop onto the frame of the brake.
Only one jig is required for the 4130 kit parts because I made small adjustments (0.015"+/-) to all of the fitment models so the the bend offset from the edge of each fitting is identical. This method is considerably faster than my precision ram type press brake.


Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Three Down-One to Go!

Wing number three is now painted. One to go!!
I sure will be happy when its done.

 I am lucky to have a good wife. Julia agreed to let me store a wing on our dining room table for a "short while". Tom Dubes helped me carry it in.

 First try at a logo.  The vinyl material is a close match to the Federal yellow paint but when it is applied over the black paint it changes slightly. I am not certain what I will do to correct it.



Saturday, May 30, 2015

Yellow Wing #2

Just for the record, the second wing is now in yellow.  Two more to go!

Two brushed coats and four sprayed coats of Ekofill grey primer, Four sprayed coats of EkoPrime white primer. Sanded a minimum of three times  depending on how well I shot the primer. Usually, not so hot! Then five crossed coats of EkoPoly Federal Yellow.  No sanding thank Goodness!



Sunday, May 24, 2015

Landing Gear Complete

#88 is back on its gear along with the floor board skin which must be installed before the main gear. The center section will likely be installed next.





Friday, May 22, 2015

Painting the Main Gear



Grounded! The fuse sadly waits while its landing gear is prepped and painted.

 The gear has been primed with PPG DP-40 epoxy primer and the fiberglassed fairings prepped with hi-build primer. I mounted both gear legs on one arm of the wing rotisserie so that they could be rotated to get to all of the weird angles.

All ready for the final top coats.

 Painting with the brake lines installed was a big PITA. I would not do that again.

Ready to install on the fuselage.

Here the gear strut is prepped and re-primed with DP=40 prior to adding the final top-coats.


Done! I plan to put #88 back on its gear tomorrow.

Covering and painting the fuse on the gear with the engine in place was also a big mistake. I wish I had covered and painted the fuse on a rotisserie. It would have been quicker, easier and I could have done a better job overall.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Fiber Glassing Landing Gear Fairings

Today I added fiberglass wraps for the landing gear /brake line fairings. I used medium weight biax glass cloth and West Systems 105/205 resin. I wrapped the brake lines with clear packing tape so that the epoxy would not glue them in place. Hopefully the fairings will survive the upcoming abuse a little better. Note that I have added flanged adapters to allow bolt on axles. THis mod is covered in earlier posts.




 Balsa fairing glued to landing gear tube.  A little body filler has been added to smooth the joint.


 Fiberglass cloth attached to fairing.  No resin yet. I used an old modeler's trick of using CA instant adhesive to tack the cloth in place.


 Here the ends of the cloth have been trimmed and tucked, again using CA to tack in place. No resin yet.


Saturated with West systems resin. Almost makes the cloth invisible,  I hope to get the gear primed and painted tomorrow.

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Painting Center Section

I shot the white Ekoprime early this morning followed by the Federal Yellow EkoPoly this afternoon. I am slowly getting a little better laying the paint on.  Also I was talking to Ken at Stewart Systems yesterday and he gave me new mix ratios for the EkoPoly. It is now 4:1:1 EloPoly/catalyst/water which is quite different from the old numbers that I had been using. I think it works better with the new ratios. I will eventually learn to paint, just about the time I finish this project!




 Tank skins in white EkoPrime.

 Bottom view of tank.

 It's yellow now.


 The formed trailing edge skins show well in this view.


Sight gage made from a Stearman part.

Fuel outlet.

Center Section Detail Photos


Just a few shots of the center section with the top cover removed. The design and construction of the aft section of my center section including the grab handle is not per plans.











Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Center Section Prep


I have decided to paint and install the upper wing center section before I paint the remaining wings. This will allow the installation the wings as they are painted.  I am apprehensive about putting newly painted wings in the storage rack, I fear that they will get impressions in the paint as they sit


There are some older posts showing the design and construction of the aluminum plate handle.  The top skin was extended rearward to incorporate and tie in the handle.  More weight but slick and strong.

My buddy Tom is helping me close out the aft bottom skin.  We thought it would require several breaks to form the concave bottom.  Tom discovered the skins would conform with no breaks.  I will try to get a better shot to show this more clearly. The compound curves of outboard aft skins make the trailing edge very strong and stiff. If all goes to plan this will soon be yellow.

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Yellow Wing

I painted the 1st wing yesterday. It turned out pretty well although I still tend to apply the paint a little too heavy. No runs or sags just more weight added to the airplane. Having said that, I am not certain that the yellow would cover with any less paint. Don't even think about painting yellow over  anything but white primer.
 1st. Wing in white EkoPrime ready for finish coats.


Federal yellow EkoPoly.

In the daylight.



The rotisserie is indispensable. If you don't want to make a cantilever rotisserie then you will need to provide some sort of support at the wing tip. I guess it could be in the form of a nav light mounting pad.